Kentucky Country Ham
Sunday afternoons and evenings here in the kitchen are when we start to talk about our upcoming menus. Our “clothesline specials” have become popular with our returning guests and they give us an opportunity to expand our cooking into areas not necessarily in the typical bbq genre. A couple weeks ago we were brainstorming and in a creative mood and I said I wanted to bring some country ham into the kitchen to mess around with. This is not an item typically stocked by our local food purveyors and although attainable, not in the timeline necessary for us to turn around a new recipe and get it implemented into our features. After checking a few makers of this item, I realized I could just drive there and pick up some, and maybe get more of an education along the way.
So what is “Country Ham”?
According to that there internet and some AI, country ham is described as a Southern dish of heavily salted pork that's cured, smoked, and hung to dry for months. The result is a salty, rich-flavored ham with a deep mahogany color. Country ham can be aged for years and is often associated with the cuisine of the Southern United States.
Ok. Heard. So I plotted a general route and jumped in our “battle van” and headed south.
I found an interesting article on Bon Apetit about what they considered to be 5 of the Best Country Hams in America. The route I plotted would eventually take me closer to western Kentucky BBQ and I could also check off the elusive smoked mutton of Owensboro
First stop: Father’s Country Hams https://fatherscountryhams.com/
Unfortunately, they were closed, or appeared to be when I drove up the long farm drive and behind a small farmhouse where two pig statues stood and seemed to be guarding the entrance to the small shop.
Ok…..so my pork passage would continue without getting a chance to try this one, but I’ll be back for sure. I continued on, avoiding the “blue roads” or the major interstates as we call them to my next stop in a neat little town called Princeton.
Col. Bill Newsom’s https://www.newsomscountryham.com/
I arrived mid-afternoon on a Monday and I was lucky enough to meat Ms. Nancy “The Ham Lady”.
I found her and her team to be delightful and the epitome of southern hospitality. They quickly shaved off several samples of their items and laid them out on some butcher paper for me to taste. Sorry, no pictures because quite honestly it all happened too fast and when meats are laid out on front of me, taking photos aren’t the first thing on my mind. I tasted some of their cooked country ham, as well as shaved traditional country ham. She also let me taste some of their American prosciutto. This was exactly what I needed to wake up my taste buds and get me thinking about all the things I can do with these flavors.
They’re small, but fully stocked storefront is like stepping back in time. It’s filled with almost too many things for a chef like me to handle. I quickly started asking for things from their deli cooler and before I knew it, I had their house-made pimento cheese, ham salad and an Ale-8-One for the road.
Nancy is very proud of her products and she has every right to be. After all, James Beard himself chose her hams to use when he was teaching at the Culinary Institute of America and hers is the only American ham at Spain’s Jamon Museum.
The day was winding down and, honestly, the few samples of ham got me thinking about supper time. So I loaded up my goodies and headed for something to eat.
Hutchen’s BBQ, Benton, KY https://www.marshallcountydaily.com/2024/07/29/hutchins-bbq/
Alas, no smoked mutton here, but I did snap a picture of my dinner that night. I ordered their bbq plate, ribs with sides of mac-n-cheese and their white beans which were deliciously “hammy”. I got a small pork sandwich, which they just called a bbq sandwich and I ordered a piece of fried catfish. I would definitely stop here again. The service was exactly what I guy like me would expect, the sweet tea was on point and that fish was awesome. Probably the crispiest cornmeal breading I’ve ever had and perfectly cooked.
I missed getting to me next stop before they closed so I found the closest Cracker Barrel, poured myself a generous Buffalo Trace and went to bed.
Broadbent Hams https://www.broadbenthams.com/
Although I didn’t call or make any special arrangements with these guys, I showed up before they opened at 8 am. I caught their official meat inspector out front finishing her smoke, and she told me she would put in a good word for me.
I was lucky enough meet the new owner, Josh Poling and he had time to show me around. I soon found out that Josh is a chef/owner like me. He has Hickory & Oak in Bowling Green, Ky.
Sometimes when you meet someone, you realize that you have so many things in common, Maybe it was his unassuming demeanor, casual confidence or just two chubby white guys who love smoked meats, bourbon and historic American food. But he allowed me to see inside the working belly of his “ship” and provided me an experience I will remember for a long time.
I am very grateful that Chef Polin had the time and inclination to share his new adventure with me. As I write this article, they are preparing for the 2024 Ky State Fair. And if I was a betting man, I’d wager they come home with another blue ribbon. As for me, I came home with a van full of cured meats, some of which are on display and hanging in our dining room. Watch our menu for dishes like this one that include a taste of American history.
